It's not Hoity Toity. Nor is it Hoi Polloi. It's Hotsy Totsy.

As I walk into the Hotsy Totsy on a Wednesday night, I'm greeted by Jimmy, the doordog, clearly a body double for That Shaggy Dog in his previous career. ID'ed by the actual doorman, and approved by Jimmy, I settle in at the bar of this 71-year-old establishment.

Michael Valladares and Jessica Maria have owned the place for almost two years, and have achieved the nearly impossible: renovating it while keeping the original's regulars happy.

The only person who could be trusted with such a task is someone with no desire to erase history. The Hotsy Totsy found that person in Valladares. Born and raised in Albany, Valladares said the Hotsy Totsy was exactly the kind of "grown-up" joint he'd try to sneak into as a kid.

"I wanted to keep a certain sleazy aesthetic here. Not dirty," he clarified, "Sleazy. I wanted this to still be that place that you can't wait to get into when you're 21. You're not sure why or what's inside, but you know it's gonna be great."

Valladares pointed to the original 1934 concrete floor and told me, "We must have gone through four layers of tile and two layers of carpet to get to that." (In the interest of full disclosure, I didn't check his numbers but, after seeing before and after photographs of the place, they sounded about right.)

Goodbye neon Budweiser signs. Hello 1940s-style textured aluminum ceilings. Out with the Cuervo. In with locally distilled 209 gin and Polish Zubrowka vodka. Au revoir dirty dive. Bonjour fabulously trashy B-movies, burlesque photography and a free juke box with handpicked and community-donated 45s. The transformation has been truly remarkable. The pair has managed to keep the older clientele comfortable, while attracting new folks looking for a place to have a drink with a friend -- without needing to leave the dog at home.

The couple's first foray into bar ownership started in Thailand with an island tourist bar they ran for a short while, though they admit the experience was very different.

"I served a lot of green and blue drinks in coconuts," said Maria shaking her head. A quick glance at her menu would tell you that is not what she considers mixology.

Maria has managed bars for almost 15 years, including César in Berkeley. For her own establishment she has created a unique and inspired menu full of bitters, fragrant gins and obscure, delicious liquors like white whiskey. All while keeping most top shelf cocktails under $10.

If that's not enough, Maria is currently barrel aging a negroni cocktail -- equal parts gin, sweet vermouth and bitters, although I'm certain she's added her own twist to the classic. The charred barrel formerly contained single malt whiskey, and the aging process takes about nine weeks. With two weeks left, Maria tells me she's not entirely sure what it will be like. But after tasting liquors on her recommendation, I have little doubt about how it will turn out. I plan on being there on barrel-opening night, while supplies last. 

Cocktails may be king but, when it comes to food, the Hotsy Totsy means business too. Valladares wanted to have good, cheap food available when every other place is closed. After fixating on the idea of a taco truck, Valladares and Maria wanted answers to two questions. Where's the el pastor? And, what's the special?

Two days and 13 taco trucks later, they settled on Tacos Autlense, which parks in front of the club until 2 a.m. Thursday through Sunday.

"These aren't $8 gringo tacos. A buck and a quarter, and they're delicious," Valladares said.

The el pastor met the Hotsy's standards and the special at Autlense is ceviche for $3. Valladares said eating fresh seafood from the truck has yet to kill him, and yet to disappoint. Zarri's Sandwiches fills the Wednesday food spot, and Tuesday can only mean one thing: Stew. 

Keli Rivers (the namesake for the Hotsy's "Bitter Rivers "cocktail) met Maria when she was working as a chef in various Bay Area restaurants. After coming on as a bartender at the Hotsy, she suggested holding a free stew night on Tuesdays. The owners took to it instantly. Now, every "Stewsday," you can see a crock pot quietly bubbling away with piping hot stew, chili, curry and even gumbo, nestled alongside the whiskey.

If the Hotsy Totsy wasn't busy enough, it has decided to add sports to its already huge community presence. Yes, the Albany Blue Balls will have found a worthy adversary in the Hotsy Totsy Unicorns. The t-shirts are ready. The game faces are on. Matthew "Sugarfoot" LaPlaca, a long time patron and recent doorman, is the team's current secret weapon. Starting July 15, Albany's adult kickball league will never know what hit 'em. My lips are sealed but all I can say now is it will most likely be a ball. 

Find out what's cooking in the crock pot, who's whooping whose behind in kickball, and when that negroni will be ready for tasting by following the Hotsy Totsy on Facebook and Twitter.

Shoot owners an e-mail via their website, or just walk on over. And make sure to say hi to Jimmy, the doordog.